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the Roman Catholic clergy. It was worn over the skullcap, and examples can still be found and purchased.
What is so fascinating about it is that it is none other than the Roman birettum, which in essence is the Latin
word for béret. Though the skullcap came to be called the subirettum,  sub-béret , I would not be surprised to
learn that the skullcap was originally called birettum or biretta. In fact today in Italy the skullcap is sometimes
called biretta in forma di callotta emisférica.
The Italian Skullcap, most properly known as the Cap of Enoch, is by far one of the most exciting of all
skullcaps. Comprised of four panels of ribbon-silk, it is identical to the yarmulke in almost every way: Italians,
aware that their skullcap was basically Jewish, named it  Cappo di Enoch after the Jewish patriarch Enoch.
But one of the differences is the little loop of cord at the top of the Cap of Enoch; beneath it, attached to the
inner side of the cap, is a cross. Thus the cap is the only skullcap in the world that bears an Egyptian ankh. It
was, indeed, worn by Egypto-Greco-Roman priestesses, and like the Capot-Ribot, it had a cape. The men
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wore it without the little cape. Today it is most commonly worn by women on the Isle of Capri, though men
wear it as often.
The other major characteristic of Enoch s Cap is the coloring. Woven into the cloth in horizontal bands
we find the colors that are collectively known as Greek Key, also called Meander. It is an ancient and
immediately recognized color scheme. It is quite intimately related to the Celtic Color Law, probably having the
same origin. The key is as follows: blue for sky (heaven), yellow for sun (light- and life-giver), silver for moon
(mysticism), red for blood (human life and sacrifice), and green for earth (sustenance and growth). The
horizontal bands, arranged in the shape of a square around the circumference of the Cap of Enoch, give a
striking effect. To quote Ms. Kilgour:  & [T]he ancients did not decorate their headgear in a meaningless way.
The colors and symbols& truly represented basic and powerful life forces. I suspect the Meander scheme as
one of the major influences on the Catholic Church colors. But the Cap of Enoch did not spread very far. In fact
it is probably the least known of all skullcaps.
Gladiators and athletes, Roman, Goth, Celt, and Greek alike, used the leathern pilos while training and
in battle. It is in this sense of protection that the skullcap found its nobility: it was worn under a crown or helmet
for comfort. Modern pilots also wear them beneath the helmet for comfort. Sometimes it was the foundation of
a crown, and was often worn in place of the unwieldy crowns of ancient times. It is worn today by Catholic
prelates in place of their ecclesiastical  crowns and to cover the tonsure. The skullcap was also worn to
anchor the cowl s hood to the head. All these traditions sprang from Rome. Finally, it is the basic pilos that
gives us Westerners our modern knit skullcap, called a Watch Cap or sailor s knit.
Yugoslavia
For the sake of expeditiousness, I have retained the old name for a vast region of Europe. The two
Yugoslavian skullcaps of interest are of the pillbox-style skullcap, which is sometimes called the Bokhara, after
the region in Turkey where it was created. First there is the Kapa, a pillbox skullcap that is the forerunner of our
graduates mortarboards. It is comprised of a flat, hard circle of crimson, on which there is stamped a gold sigil
of some type. The edges of the cap are black satin or silk, and are attached by coming up and over the edges
of the stiff circle. This cap is beloved by the Montenegrins, and is another example of nationalist feelings
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expressed in headgear. Incidentally, the black sides of the cap are in commemoration of the War of Kosovo
(Kossovo), fought long ago.
The other cap is technically not Yugoslavian. The Dalmatian Cap comes from the region of Dalmatia,
where once lived the Dalmatians, a Latin people. Sadly, these people, their culture and language were extinct
by the mid-19th century. But their caps, with the unfortunate link to blood-feuds, live on, still worn by
Yugoslavians living in Dalmatia. It has black tassels, is basically crimson in background color, and has lovely
yellow and blue zigzags complemented by silver embroidery. It is called the Bachelor s Cap, or Bachelor s
Lifesaver, because in the past it was worn by men who had  sold out , meaning they had been paid to drop out
of the blood-feuds. No active feuder would hassle such a cap-wearer because they were originally worn by
unmarried men uninvolved in feuds. It was by wearing this skullcap that many murderers got away.
Russia
The infamous Shapka, also called the Cossack s Cap, is nothing more than a fur skullcap. Everyone
has seen the erstwhile Muscovites on television and in the movies, wearing the gigantic-sized version to help
fend off the Russian winters. Lately this fur hat has made something of a splash in the West; we do not yet
have the taste for the largest versions, measuring more than 2 feet by 2 feet- but the English palace guards
wear them. These are traditionally made completely of lambskin, with the shaggy side out.
Much more interesting is the Cap of Friendship, also called the Bokhara-Rug Cap because the earliest
versions were identical to the famous Bokharan carpets from Turkey. The skullcap is known in the Bokharan
language as the Tuibitaka, also known as the Tartar Cap. This is essentially a pillbox with a pointy top, due to
its construction. The edges of the slightly more modern Tuibitaka still bear resemblance to the rugs, but the
majority of the cap is richly made and elaborately embroidered. Bokhara is already famous for its unique, [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
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