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4 oz figs 1 1/2 t cinnamon 1/2 t ginger
4 oz raisins
Wash and core apple and pear but do not peel. Cut figs into 2 or 3 pieces each. Use a food
processor or mortar and pestle to reduce the ingredients to a uniform mush.
Pastry: 1 1/2 c flour 1/4 c water 1 beaten egg
Stir cold water into flour, stir in egg, stir and knead until smooth. Roll out as two 12"x15" sheets.
Cut each sheet into 10 6"x3" pieces. Spread 1 T of filling on one piece and put another piece
over it, making a sandwich of dough, filling, dough. Using the back of a thick knife, press the
edges together to seal them, then press along the lines shown in the figure, giving a 6"x3"  cake
made up of fifteen miniature fruit filled ravioli, joined at their edges. Boil about 4 minutes, then
broil at a medium distance from the burner about 4 minutes a side, watching to be sure they do
not burn.
An earlier version of this recipe (Two Anglo-Norman Culinary Collections) shows
the figure as a 3x3 grid. That fits the text more closely. You cut pieces about 3"x6",
fold them to 3"x3" with the filling inside, then press a tic-tac-toe pattern with the
back of your knife, giving a 3x3 grid of miniature ravioli.
Page 124
Hulwa
Ibn al-Mabrad p.19
Its varieties are many. Among them are the sweets made of natif. You put dibs [fruit syrup], honey, sugar or
rubb [thick fruit syrup] in the pot, then you put it on a gentle fire and stir until it takes consistency. Then you
beat eggwhite and put it with it and stir until it thickens and becomes natif. After that, if you want almond
candy you put in toasted almonds and 'allaftahu; that is, you bind them. walnuts, pistachios, hazelnuts,
toasted chickpeas, toasted sesame, flour. [apparently alternative versions]. You beat in the natif until thickens.
For duhniyyah you put in flour toasted with fat. As for ... (other versions.)
Sugar version: Honey version:
1 1/4 c sugar 1 c honey
1/4 c water 1 egg white
1 egg white 2 1/2-3 c or more nuts
1 1/2 - 2 c nuts = ~10 oz
This makes 25-40 hulwa, depending on size.
Sugar version: Bring the water to a boil, stir in the sugar, continuing to heat. When it is dissolved
and reasonably clear, turn it down to a simmer and put the top on the pot for two or three minutes
(this is to let the steam wash down any sugar on the sides of the pot). Take the top off, boil
gently until the temperature reaches the hard ball stage (250° -260° F). Beat the egg white until it
is just stiff enough to hold its shape. Pour the sugar syrup into the egg white, beating
continuously. You now have a thick white mixture; this is the natif. Mix it with chopped nuts
(we have used almonds and walnuts) or toasted sesame seeds, or some mixture thereof. Squeeze
the mixture into balls and set them aside to cool. Note that as the natif cools, it gets harder and
less sticky, so you have to work quickly; the hotter you get the syrup before combining it with
the egg white (and hence the less water ended up in it), the faster this happens and the dryer the
hulwa ends up. If you get past 260°, the syrup may crystallize on you as or before you pour it; if
so, give up and start over.
Honey version: Simmer the honey gently until it reaches a temperature of 280° -290° F. From
that point on, the recipe is the same as for sugar, using the boiled honey instead of the sugar
syrup. Note that honey requires a higher temperature than sugar to get the same effect. Also note
that natif made from honey will be stickier than natif made from sugar (maybe you can solve this
by getting the honey up to 310° without burning it; I couldn't). So use a higher ratio of nuts to
natif and have the nuts chopped more finely; this helps reduce the stickiness. You may want to
roll the honey hulwa in sesame seeds or ground nuts, also to reduce stickiness.
Dibs version (still experimental). Stir the dibs while simmering at medium heat about 1/2 hour+,
until it gets to about 250°. If you do not stir, it may separate out. By 250° there is some problem
with scorching.
Note: Dibs is date syrup, available from some Middle Eastern grocery stores.
Toasted Sesame: To toast sesame seeds, you put them in a heavy iron pot over a medium to high
flame, and watch them carefully. When the ones on the bottom begin to to tan, start stirring.
When they are all tan to brown, take them off the heat or they will burn.
Page 125
Makshufa
al-Baghdadi p. 211/13
Take equal parts of sugar, almonds (or pistachios), honey, and sesame-oil. Grind the sugar and almonds, and
mix together. Add saffron to color, mixed with rose-water. Put the sesame oil into a basin and boil until
fragrant: then drop in the honey, and stir until the scum appears. Add the sugar and almonds, stirring all the
time over a slow fire until almost set: then remove.
6 oz = 3/4 c sugar 6 oz =1/2 c+ honey 10 threads saffron ground into
6 oz = 1 c+ almonds 6 oz = 3/4 c sesame oil 3 T rosewater
Grind the almonds coarsely in a food processor, then add the sugar and grind briefly together to
mix (I assume the original is using a block of sugar, which is why it has to be ground). Add the
saffron and rose water and run the food processor long enough to mix it in smoothly. Heat the oil
to about 350° over a medium heat, add the honey and cook about 3 minutes on low. Foam (not
very thick like the bubbles of bubble bath, or a little thinner) will cover the top. Add the
almonds and sugar. At this point it may foam up and boil over, so be careful, use a reasonably
large pot, and be ready to remove it from the heat temporarily if necessary. Cook on medium to
medium high, with a candy thermometer in the pot; be careful to keep the thermometer from
touching the bottom.
At a temperature of about 230° the mixture becomes smooth. After cooking about 10 minutes
(from the time the sugar went in) it reaches about 270°. If you stop at that point, your Makshufa
will be light colored and chewy. Another 6 minutes or so gets the syrup up to about 290°, giving
a darker candy, crunchier, with a slightly caramelized taste.
Remove from heat, spoon onto a buttered cookie sheet (to make lots of little candies) or else pour
it on (to make a sheet of candy like peanut brittle) and let cool. Chill, remove from the cooky
sheet and keep the candy refrigerated or frozen to make it less likely to stick together. It is
crunchier if you serve it chilled. The recipe makes about 40-45 pieces 1 3/4" in diameter with a
total weight of about 21 ounces.
Payn ragoun
Curye on Inglysch p. 113 (Forme of Cury no. 68)
Take hony and sugur cipre and clarifie it togydre, and boile it with esy fyre, and kepe it wel fro brennyng. And
whan it hath yboiled a while, take vp a drope erof wi fyngur and do it in a litel water, and loke if it hong
togydre; and take it fro the fyre and do erto pynes the triddendele & powdour gyngeuer, and stere it togydre
til it bigynne to thik, and cast it on a wete table; lesh it and serue it forth with fryed mete, on flessh dayes or
on fysshe dayes.
1 c honey 1 c pine nuts
1 c sugar 2-3 t ginger, depending on how spicy you want it
Mix honey and sugar, cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until temperature reaches 270°,
stirring constantly once it was over 250°; about 1/2 hour. Test by dropping small amount of
syrup into water to see if it holds shape. Remove from heat, add pine nuts and ginger. Spread
onto wet marble slab. Let cool until it can be cut into pieces, then serve. Result is very stretchy,
almost like taffy.
Page 126
Sukkariyya, a Sugar Dish from the Dictation of Abu 'Ali al-Bagdadi [ Pobierz całość w formacie PDF ]
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